Tuesday, 20 October 2026

Road Trip Retrospective

 


When is the right time to have The Talk?

As we packed our bags, getting ready for our trip to Alabama, the question swirled through my mind.

I remembered, so clearly, speaking to my children during the summer of 2020 about Black Lives Matter – regardless of how one feels about the demonstrations that summer – and how some parents of color have conversations with their children about what to expect when they engage with society at large.

And now, here I was, wondering what we might expect as we prepared to head into the heart of Dixie.

It was the summer after 10/7 and the world was on its head. Right was wrong; victims were perpetrators. And I was left to contemplate whether I’d made a very stupid decision in going on this road trip.

Briefly, I considered the old standby: Make sure we dress as inconspicuously as possible and cover or remove anything that could be seen as outwardly Jewish.

But I remembered the promise I’d made almost 30 years before, that I’d never take off my kippah out of fear or discomfort, and I had to nix the idea of concealing our identity. I couldn’t make part of The Talk about hiding who we are.

In the end, we went as we are: A modern Orthodox Jewish family just wanting to see America, build memories, and have fun.


Our trips began small about nine years ago as a response to something one of my older children said. The exact content of that exchange is irrelevant right now, and it’s not part of my story to tell, but it motivated me to grab my 8-year-old and my 7-year-old, toss them in the car, and head off towards the East End of Long Island. We spent three days exploring Montauk, the Gold Coast, the Long Island Sound, and the Riverhead Aquarium.


(Courtesy)

That trip spawned other adventures, each one more daring than the first: Rhode Island and Massachusetts; Maine; Vermont and New Hampshire; Upstate New York; Cape May, New Jersey; Virginia and North Carolina; Tennessee; South Carolina and Georgia; Alabama, Louisiana, and Florida; and then, our grand excursion, our cross-country trek to California, cutting through Ohio, Kentucky, Kansas, Colorado, Arizona, Nevada, and then through Utah, Wyoming, South Dakota, and Iowa on our way back to our home on Long Island.

This is to say we’ve seen a lot.

We always travel in our vehicle, a simple SUV. We’ve felt the texture of the road beneath us, the twists and turns of the routes we’ve taken, the blazing sun shining through the windshield and windows as we raced across the landscape.

And we have met a lot of people.

So perhaps there’s a bitter irony that today Jewish families across this country are forced to have our own version of The Talk with our kids, where we have to warn them about what it’s like to be Jewish on a college campus or in a secular office space.

Where we have to give our children advice about what to do when confronted by good old-fashioned Jew-hatred, blood libels, and casual antisemitism masquerading as anti-Zionism.

And it seems so bizarre that we’ve been reduced, in many ways, to clichés and catchphrases: If you see something, say something; trust your gut; better safe than sorry.

Yet, here we are, in 2026.


In some ways, it’s really surprising that the only two disquieting encounters we have had on our trips occurred before 10/7, one on our pass-through of Connecticut on our way to Massachusetts and the other during our second visit to North Carolina.

I actually don’t remember precisely where we were or what we were doing in Connecticut, but I clearly remember walking as a family to our car after a long day. As we crossed a main roadway into a park-like area and continued the trek to the parking lot where our car awaited our return, a motorist on the roadway slowed to a crawl and screamed loudly, “FREE PALESTINE!”

I had an instant to respond – or not. What could I say back? Should I say anything back? My family was with me: Do I ignore it and engender probing questions from my kids? Do I respond and possibly provoke a confrontation with a person who could get violent?

All these thoughts took about three seconds to race through my mind.

I turned around, raised my arm and waved, and cheerfully called back, “LOVE YOU TOO!”

To this day I have no idea if I made the right decision.

But the look on his face, the slack-jawed, open-mouthed stare, as he tried to figure me and my response out, tends to make me think I did. He was thoroughly confused: Was I mocking him? Showing him solidarity?

His window to continue the exchange closed as traffic built behind him, and he had no choice but to drive off. We got back to the car, slightly rattled, but grateful that a disturbing interaction was all we’d had to deal with.


(Courtesy)

Our encounter in North Carolina was one based in literal ignorance. It was so bizarre, it might actually be labeled as funny. A cashier in a souvenir shop asked if I was Jewish. After I said yes, she asked to see what was beneath my kippah and expressed surprise that I allowed my wife to go shopping in public. Two astonishing misconceptions in one short exchange. And yet, there was clearly no hatred behind them – only curiosity – so we classified that encounter differently from the one in Connecticut.


For the most part, though, across the vast majority of our trips through a good chunk of this country – and we’ve driven to some real out-of-the-way places: Foley and Selma, Alabama; Harpers Ferry, West Virginia; Wamego, Kansas – our encounters with perfect strangers have been wholesome and kind.

And maybe it was just fitting – I don’t know, karma, Divine intervention – that the summer after we went to Alabama and spent time exploring Selma, Montgomery, and Birmingham, the summer after I had The Talk with my children, the summer after my fears and trepidation were dispelled by the Southern heat and Southern hospitality, we met a young Black couple from Alabama who, like us, were visiting Mount Rushmore and who, like us, were trying to visit every state. We commiserated over the joys of road trips with children, compared notes on the number of states we’d been to (them, 46; us, 32 at the time), talked some more, and then parted ways.

It was such a human moment. And all our trips have been replete with simple, human moments.

There was the random woman who came up to me in a grocery store in North Carolina and furtively asked, “Are you Jewish?” When I gave my assent, she proclaimed her support for the Jewish people and the State of Israel. There was the very kind Indian family who managed a hotel on one of our excursions – a hotel whose amenities were the least Sabbath-friendly I’d ever seen; even the coffee dispensers were completely electric. But they acted with consideration and kindness and bent over backwards to make sure we wouldn’t violate Shabbos. There was the gentleman in West Virginia who, like the woman from North Carolina, asked if I was Jewish, and like her, lamented the state of world affairs with me. There was the Black woman who tsked and said, “I don’t understand why people hate your people so much” and the stranger on the street in our own community on Long Island who asked, “Is ‘Shalom’ how you say hello?” and then proceeded to offer us a “Shalom!” with a smile.

The positive encounters we have had far outnumber the negative ones. And although things sometimes look bleak, our travels across this great, vast country have given me more hope and inspiration than I would have believed possible.

Antisemitism is real, and it must be confronted. But we must also remember that there are many more people out there who are fundamentally good.

It is 2026, not 1936. History may rhyme – but we can change the meter and the rhyme scheme.

https://jewishpress.com/road-trip-retrospective/

Macron Shocked by Riots Sweeping Through France

https://www.israelnationalnews.com/news/434802

https://www.israelnationalnews.com/news/434849

Macron ‘shocked’ by riots sweeping through France

Macron vows to prosecute rioters as more than 2,000 are arrested and over 600 security personnel injured in unrest across France.

Riots in France
Riots in FranceREUTERS/Jack Taylor

French President Emmanuel Macron addressed the nation in a special speech following a wave of violence and looting that swept the country. He expressed shock at the destruction, vowed to prosecute those responsible and ordered an investigation into whether security forces had failed to prepare adequately. He also announced measures to restrict gatherings and called for representatives of the public to convene in an effort to find a solution to the crisis.

French President Emmanuel Macron delivered a special address to the nation on Sunday evening following the severe riots that erupted across the country, expressing shock at the violence, arson and looting accompanying mass protests over the cost of living.

“How can French people do this to France?" Macron asked, referring to images of destruction from Paris and other cities.

“When we look at these images, we all ask ourselves what was going through their minds. Nothing justifies this, nothing explains it, and nothing can serve as an excuse for it. Tonight, we all feel anger and shame," he said.

Macron made clear that he intended to hold those responsible for the violence accountable, warning that anyone who had attempted to attack the institutions of the republic would have to answer for their actions. He said the country could not accept a situation in which social protest turned into an assault on state institutions, security forces and public property.

The president also addressed serious questions raised by the scale of the unrest and the authorities’ ability to contain it. He announced that he had ordered an investigation to determine whether there had been failures in intelligence gathering or police preparations ahead of the demonstrations.

The move comes after security forces struggled to bring the numerous sites of violence under control. In Paris, shops were looted, vehicles were set on fire and extensive property damage was reported. In other cities, public buildings were attacked, including in Limoges, where a substantial part of the historic city hall was burned.

Macron also announced that local mayors and representatives of the central government in the regions would be granted the authority to ban certain gatherings where necessary, with the aim of preventing further outbreaks of violence.

The speech followed a day in which France experienced an exceptional wave of violence. According to figures reported by French media on Sunday evening, more than 2,000 people had been arrested during the unrest, while more than 600 police officers, gendarmes and firefighters had been injured.

The protests began as demonstrations against the cost of living and cuts to public services. According to official figures, approximately 550,000 people took part, while organizers put the turnout at around 800,000. Much of the protest activity remained peaceful, but groups of rioters took advantage of the demonstrations to attack police officers, loot shops and set buildings on fire.

The unrest has also triggered a fierce political confrontation. The French government blamed far-left groups, while opposition figures criticized police preparations and the government’s handling of the situation.

With approximately six months remaining in his term, Macron now faces a crisis combining widespread social protest, street violence and criticism of the government’s ability to maintain public order.

https://www.israelnationalnews.com/news/434802

Macron pointed to “unrestrained violence” by “insurrectionist elements from radical far-left groups, joined by numerous criminals.”

     Paris

Macron lectures Israel while France burns

A president so confident about criticizing another democracy should bring the same urgency to protecting his own citizens.


Watching Paris streets descend into scenes of smashed windows, burning barricades, and looted businesses is heartbreaking. You feel anger at the people destroying it and at the leaders whose responsibility is to protect it.

Emmanuel Macron has spent years telling Israel what responsible leadership requires. At the United Nations and before the world’s cameras, France’s president has delivered prescriptions, condemnations, and diplomatic initiatives with remarkable confidence.

After the latest violence across France, a question demands an answer: Where is that confidence when his own country needs governing?

On October 17, demonstrations ostensibly over living costs and deteriorating public services brought hundreds of thousands into French streets. They did not protest peacefully. Violent groups exploited the mobilization to attack buildings, loot businesses, and confront police.

In Limoges, the historic city hall burned. In Marseille, intruders broke into city hall and defaced it. In Lyon, the tourist office was set ablaze. A synagogue was desecrated. This was a crisis stretching far beyond the capital.

By Sunday, the Interior Ministry reported nearly 2,400 arrests and almost 1,000 injured police officers and gendarmes. Further clashes and looting followed in Paris. Behind those figures were frightened residents, injured people, exhausted officers, and business owners confronting wrecked livelihoods.

A country cannot become accustomed to this.

The world has heard Macron’s lectures. France may not survive to see the end of his speech.

A broken shop window looks almost abstract in a photograph. For the person who owns the shop, it means lost income, insurance claims, canceled work, and uncertainty about whether reopening is even possible.

A burned municipal building means disrupted services and damage to the shared inheritance of a community. A street surrendered to violence tells residents that the protections they pay for and depend upon have become unreliable.

These are failures with consequences long after the television crews leave.

Macron condemned the destruction and distinguished peaceful demonstrators from those responsible for violence. That distinction is essential. People demanding better schools, adequate teachers, and affordable lives deserve to be heard. Their grievances do not become illegitimate because criminals exploit a demonstration.

But condemnation after the damage cannot be the full measure of presidential leadership. Citizens are entitled to ask what was anticipated, what was protected, and why obvious targets were left vulnerable.

They deserve answers before the next eruption.

My frustration is sharpened by Macron’s relentless confidence in judging Israel. And let’s face it. Some of the most violent protesters throughout France are Jihadis waiving Palestinian flags. It seems they hate France as much, or even more, than they hate Israel. Wow! That’s incalculable hate!

And yet, here is a leader who repeatedly presents himself as capable of prescribing security arrangements for a democracy across the Mediterranean facing threats considerably more severe than his own.

His domestic record should inspire greater humility.

In October 2024, Macron called for an end to arms exports used in Gaza and Lebanon. He presented the proposal as a means of stopping the conflicts. Israelis had every reason to ask how restricting military supplies would affect their ability to confront armed enemies.

Then, in May 2025, France joined Britain and Canada in a statement opposing expanded Israeli operations in Gaza and threatening further action if Israel did not change course.

In September 2025, Macron announced France’s recognition of a Palestinian Arab state at the United Nations. He argued that recognition would advance peace and undermine Hamas.

That judgment as dangerous and downright stupid. Diplomatic recognition cannot itself establish accountable institutions, disarm terrorists, or guarantee that territory will never again become a launching ground for attacks.

A ceremony can announce a state. It cannot supply the conditions that make one peaceful.

A Palestinian Arab state would of course be an existential threat to Israel. But truth be told it would be an even greater danger to itself as a failed state ruled by lawless terrorists who murder Palestinian Arab women and shoot protesters indiscriminately like in Iran.

Israeli security deserves more than reassuring language appended to policies Israelis know will endanger them.

Macron is not entitled to assume that his distance from the battlefield confers superior wisdom about its dangers.

His approach reflects a severe anti-Israel bias: excessive faith in pressuring the Jewish state and insufficient respect for the security judgments of people who must live with the consequences.

A ceremony can announce a state. It cannot supply the conditions that make one peaceful.

No child receives a better education because a school is vandalized. No struggling family benefits when its neighborhood supermarket is looted.

Destruction impoverishes the very communities in whose name it is so often rationalized.

While Israel thrives, Paris is burning. Perhaps Macron should save France and hold off on condemning the Jews.















Monday, 19 October 2026

Iran's Revolutionary Guards threaten to turn Israel into 'scorched earth'

 


Iran's Revolutionary Guards threaten a devastating response against Israel if Iranian energy facilities are attacked, amid escalating warnings between Tehran and Trump.



Iran's Islamic Revolutionary Guard Corps (IRGC) on Sunday threatened severe retaliation against Israel if Iranian energy infrastructure comes under attack, warning that such an operation would have devastating consequences.

IRGC spokesman Hossein Mohabbi issued the threat in a post on X, which was subsequently removed for violating the platform's rules.

“Any attack on Iran’s energy infrastructure, although it will immediately be repaired by our young scientists, will turn the occupied territories into scorched earth forever and drive its usurpers into the Sinai Desert," Mohabbi wrote.

“The world will see what happens," he added.

The warning came amid an escalating exchange of threats between Iranian officials and US President Donald Trump, following the President's public endorsement of Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu ahead of Israel's October 27 Knesset election.

"Last time you wanted to 'finish the job', Iran emerged even stronger. Want to try your luck again? Be our guest. But be careful; we have unfinished jobs too," Araghchi wrote on social media.

Araghchi also accused Netanyahu of seeking to involve Washington in another confrontation with Tehran for personal political reasons.

"Netanyahu is driving America into another war to stay out of jail, whatever the consequences for Israel-let alone POTUS," he added.

The Iranian statements followed Trump's endorsement of Netanyahu for another term, in which the American President emphasized their cooperation against Iran and warned of the consequences of a change in Israeli leadership.

Addressing Israeli voters in a Truth Social post, Trump praised Netanyahu's record in confronting the Iranian regime.

"To the Great People of Israel: Bibi Netanyahu has been a Great Warrior Prime Minister, and an even greater Partner for Peace in combatting the Islamic Republic of Iran, with its 51 year old chant, 'Death to Israel, Death to America! We will destroy the Little Satan and the Big Satan,'" Trump wrote. "What Country can survive when things such as this are allowed to be said, because eventually, they always end up being true?"

Trump argued that American military and economic measures had substantially weakened Iran but indicated that additional action remained possible.

"It would have been only a question of time until Iran would have put that ominous phrase into effect, but they have been systematically destroyed, both Militarily and Financially, and unless they change their ways, rapidly, we will soon finish the job."

He also made clear that he regarded Netanyahu's continued leadership as important to the US-Israeli approach toward Tehran.

"If Israel has the wrong Leader, which would be anyone other than Bibi, America will have to do this work ourselves, and I am not inclined to do so," Trump warned.

Israel's Valley of Springs

https://www.jpost.com/travel/article-911785

The gate of Eden: In Israel’s Valley of Springs, ancient history offers a new journey of healing

From shepherding at dawn to dining among Roman ruins, discover the springs, flavors, and history of Israel’s Emek Hama’ayanot.


More than 1,700 years ago, the Talmudic sage Reish Lakish looked out over the Beit She’an basin and left a line the valley still lives by: “If the Garden of Eden is in the Land of Israel, its gate is Beit She’an.”

We came to see for ourselves, as a family, with our two boys: two nights, and a valley that seems to be made mostly of water.

Emek Hama’ayanot, the Valley of Springs, lies beneath the ridge of Mount Gilboa, inside the long scar of the Syrian-African Rift. About 40 natural springs rise here from deep underground, holding steady between 24 and 28 degrees Celsius in every season. Water is the reason people came, and the reason they stayed.

Under the Greeks and Romans, Beit She’an became Scythopolis, the leading city of the Decapolis, a league of 10 Greco-Roman cities, and the only one of them west of the Jordan River. Its builders turned spring water into public fountains, cascading staircases, and great heated baths. Long before anyone coined the phrase “wellness tourism,” this valley was practicing it.

What we found 2,000 years later is a region still in the business of healing: fish ponds returned to wetland, kitchens reopened by reservists home from war, and a holiday village that uses running water to quiet the world.

Inside A Kama suite. Under the curved ceiling, a family of up to six has soft beds, its own kitchenette and espresso machine, and no television – only a terrace and the quiet of the valley.
Inside A Kama suite. Under the curved ceiling, a family of up to six has soft beds, its own kitchenette and espresso machine, and no television – only a terrace and the quiet of the valley. (credit: NOAM BEDEIN)

A village built to slow you down

Our base for both nights was Kama Resort, and it shaped everything that followed.

Its founder, Khen Shalem, never planned to be a hotelier. Trained as a physicist, he moved into filmmaking and won a Student Emmy Award for his short film Abe. After securing the film rights to Meir Shalev’s bestselling A Russian Novel (Roman Rusi), he realized that independent cinema in Israel would not pay its own way. Kama was meant to be a quiet business that would fund the screenplay.

Then the place took hold of him. Today, he says that even with a large budget in hand, he would put every resource back into Kama rather than return to a film set.

Shalem grew up on nearby Kibbutz Nir David, and Kama feels like a memory of that childhood. At its center is a wide green lawn in the spirit of the old kibbutz commons, framed by an avenue of trees. Every unit faces inward, toward the grass, the reflection pools, and the shallow wading pool. He kept the creative work in the valley. Architects Hava Pasder and Ami Dvir, of the firm Artista, drew the plans. Lilach Lempel designed the interiors. Visual artist Dana Stempler Asael photographed the rooms.

The valley is working farmland, and tractors start early. Instead of building walls, Shalem turned to the memory of his father, an archaeologist who studied the Roman water systems of this region and who passed away when Shalem was a boy. A stone aqueduct now runs across the grounds and spills into a waterfall over the wading pool. Its steady rush covers the sound of farm machinery and settles over the whole village like white noise.

The suites are unlike anything else in the valley: rounded vaults modeled on arched aircraft hangars, built with curved-steel Quonset engineering. To get them right, Shalem found Rami, an Israel Air Force veteran who spent his military career building these exact hangars. Inside, the ceiling curves overhead without a single hard angle, and the effect is one of shelter.

Each suite has 42 sq.m. of insulated living space and an 18-sq.m. private terrace. It sleeps up to six, with a double bed and two to four singles, a large bathroom with a walk-in shower, and a kitchenette with a refrigerator, microwave, and espresso machine. There are no televisions, by design. The idea is that you step outside and listen to the valley instead.

Even the safe rooms tell a story. Israeli law requires a fortified room, a mamad, and Shalem shaped Kama’s to echo the 1930s Tower and Stockade (Homa U’migdal) settlements, a nod to the nearby historical outposts of Tel Hashlosha and Migdal George.

Kama Resort has 23 units today, with zoning approval for up to 250. Its lawn can hold corporate retreats of 250 people and gatherings of up to 600. Many guests book their next stay before they check out. From here, the valley’s springs, nature reserves, ruins, and restaurants are all minutes away, and Kama guests receive benefits at leading local restaurants and attractions.

Just outside Beit She’an, Nahal Harod falls through the stone arches of the Kantara Bridge, built in the Mamluk period as a channel to carry spring water to the fields.
Just outside Beit She’an, Nahal Harod falls through the stone arches of the Kantara Bridge, built in the Mamluk period as a channel to carry spring water to the fields. (credit: NOAM BEDEIN)

Dawn with the flock

Spring and summer in the valley set their own hours. If you want to be outside, you go at dawn.

At 6 a.m., with the sun rising crimson and gold over the mountains of Jordan, we arrived at Havat Nokdey Ruppin, known across the valley as Dir Balak, on the edge of Kibbutz Kfar Ruppin. Ile Shevach, with a background as an emotional therapist, runs the farm with her husband, Tsachi, its master cheesemaker. They built it as an educational farm as much as an agricultural one. The kibbutz children who work here, known as the “Dirnikim,” care for the young goats, handle daily chores, and set much of the barn’s rhythm.

We walked out to pasture with the herd, some 40 mothers and kids, and our two sons found their places on their own.

Eitam, seven, took the front. With a rough wooden staff in hand, he led the herd forward, steering it through body language, low calls, and small shifts in position. His small frame was a silhouette against the rising sun, and the flock moved with his steps. Lavie, 10, took the rear, and the farm’s puppies with it. He watched the ground, kept the pups watered as the heat climbed, and carried them when the desert thorns cut their paws.

Walking beside us, Shevach said that shepherding was humanity’s first school of leadership and responsibility. Animals read the person guiding them instantly: the anxiety, the hesitation, the calm. For a child to earn that trust from a flock, and to show that kind of care on rough ground, is a lesson no classroom can teach. Watching our boys that morning, I understood exactly what she meant.

The farm’s coffee truck was waiting when we came back: excellent espresso, warm, flaky pastries, and cheese made on site from the milk of the goats we had just walked across the fields. It was sharp and clean, with a trace of the wild herbs the herd grazes each morning. Animal, land and table, with nothing in between.

Water finding its way home

Our guide to the valley’s wild eastern edge, along the Jordanian border, was Chen Ravon Sherry, a ranger with the Society for the Protection of Nature in Israel (SPNI). Her field is rewilding, a conservation approach that pulls back from heavy human intervention and lets natural processes repair damaged ecosystems on their own terms. By the end of our trip, her way of seeing had become the thread running through everything we experienced.

For decades, commercial fish ponds dominated this landscape. They broke up migration routes and disrupted the native springs. Under the Startup Nature campaign, Chen and the SPNI are reversing that, one careful step at a time. They clear old blockages and use gravity and the land’s natural slope to send spring water back into abandoned ponds. The result is a growing chain of wetlands that eventually returns clean water to the Jordan River.

The land has answered. Thick walls of reeds, sweet cane, and native plants have reclaimed the banks. Songbirds fill the air, and native fish move through water that feels untouched.

Along the border fence, the quiet is so complete that the loudest sounds are a fish breaking the surface and the wind in the reeds. That stillness has drawn combat veterans, civilians carrying the invisible wounds of war, and people living with severe PTSD. Many come to volunteer alongside the SPNI rangers, clearing stream paths, tracking wildlife, and checking water levels. It is slow, repetitive work under an open sky. With no sudden city noise and the constant presence of running water, frayed nervous systems slowly settle.

Winter transforms these ponds again. The valley sits on the great migration corridor linking Europe, Asia, and Africa, and ranks as the second most important bird-watching destination in Israel. Thousands of great white pelicans land here in tight formation, alongside black storks, glossy ibises, herons, and raptors riding the thermals off Mount Gilboa. Picture a January morning at the edge of a border pond, pelicans feeding in unison beneath the desert mountains. That is our next reporting trip.

The valley at the table

A landscape can’t fully restore you unless it feeds you too. Every table we sat at in this valley told a story of return: to the soil, home from the front lines, or straight into ancient stone.

Meshek Eliyahu, Moshav Beit Yosef: Our culinary journey began at this family-run farm restaurant, where chef Eliran Ishran cooks farm-to-table in the truest sense. For more than a decade, the family worked at the top of Israel’s competitive restaurant scene. When the war broke out, many of them were called up for months of reserve duty on the front lines, and came home wanting what mattered most: family, soil, and honest cooking.

The kitchen buys directly from valley farmers and has no fixed menu. Each day is built around what was harvested that morning from their own plots and neighboring farms. We ate charred root vegetables with raw tahini and local honey, crisp field greens, and slow-baked bread made from heirloom grains. Every plate felt alive.

Artichoke, at the foot of Mount Gilboa: Where the mountain meets the valley floor, Artichoke puts regional farming at the center of the plate. Artichokes, beets, and fresh herbs are the stars, cooked with real creativity. Children and adults can step off the patio straight into the fields and walk among the rows of crops, while the sheer cliffs of the Gilboa rise behind the tables. Readers who show this article receive a special discount through Yaniv.

Zoara Distillery (Jordan Spirits): Zoara was founded to solve an agricultural problem. Valley packing houses reject millions of kilograms of good dates every year for cosmetic flaws alone. Zoara rescues them, ferments and distills them into a clean, high-proof base, and then turns to the land for flavor: Mount Gilboa pine needles, local ashwagandha, mint, and lemon verbena. Its lineup revives the heirloom Yosef Effendi mandarin, which took silver at the 2024 London Spirits Competition, alongside a bright mulberry gin and Arak Mansour, aged three years in oak barrels in the valley heat. A glass here sums up Emek Hama’ayanot: taking what was discarded or scarred and making it whole again.

Dinner among the ruins

In Beit She’an’s old city, history isn’t behind glass. You eat beside it, and sometimes inside it.

Even Harosha: This wine bar and meat bistro carries one of the valley’s great stories of resilience. Its founder, Shimon Oshri, a retired IDF commander, spent most of his career leading elite units, including the Duvdevan unit. After leaving the army, he bought an old, grease-stained garage along the historical market streets, planning to turn it into a fine bistro.

His first day of construction was set for October 8, 2023. Instead, he went straight back into uniform and spent months commanding troops on the southern front. When he finally came home, he poured himself into finishing the space. He named it for the keystone that locks an arch together and dedicated it to his late mother, a beloved local kindergarten teacher for 42 years.

The setting is extraordinary. The dining room sits inside the moat that Crusader knights cut some 900 years ago to protect their fortress. Its walls are the original hand-cut basalt and limestone arches, softened by sleek industrial steel. The kitchen pairs premium meats with regional wines, but the dish already entering local lore is Shimon’s Schnitzel: huge, golden, wafer-thin, with an unbelievable crunch. It is comfort food raised to an art, and best eaten with a glass of crisp local wine.

Helena: For lunch, Helena gives the most honest taste of the town. It has the bustle of a beloved workers’ lunch spot, and it treats its food with real pride. Helena backs onto the ancient stone of the old quarter, steps from a 2,000-year-old Roman amphitheater where, in the golden age of Scythopolis, gladiators fought lions. The moment you sit down, the table fills with house-made salads, bright pickles, smoky grilled eggplant, and fiery chili sauces, followed by thin, crisp schnitzels and tender grilled meats. Fast, generous, and done with care, it’s easy to see why locals line up every afternoon.

That amphitheater has never been excavated. The region holds so much history that the Israel Antiquities Authority has left it as it is, wild and silent under the brush. To trace the stone gates where fighters and lions once entered the arena, from your seat at a lunch table, is an experience no museum can offer.

Basilia: For dinner, we went to Basilia, an upscale dairy and Italian restaurant. The kitchen works closely with local growers, so the menu shifts with the valley’s harvests: pasta rolled by hand each day, wood-fired pizzas with blistered, airy crusts, and garden salads built around artisanal valley cheeses. The service is warm, but the real magic is on the open terrace, where the night breeze moves through wheat fields that stretch into the dark. Here, fine dining and fertile earth share the same breath.

The city beneath the city

Early one morning, before the gates opened to the public, we walked Beit She’an National Park with its longtime director, Nissim Bados. He has spent about 40 years excavating and preserving this site. He first arrived in 1986 as a young student, when a large government project brought 450 local workers to the dig to fight unemployment in the region.

Few cities on earth, Nissim told us, can match Beit She’an’s unbroken record: nearly 7,000 years of continuous settlement, with 20 layers of civilization stacked on the central tel alone, from the Chalcolithic through the Canaanite, Egyptian, and Persian eras. The valley’s soil was so fertile it was said to yield seventy times the seed sown.

Under the Greeks and Romans, the city was reborn as Scythopolis, named, as Nissim tells it, for Scythian horsemen from the cold steppes who settled here for the water despite the summer heat. It became the capital of the Decapolis and a crossroads between the Mediterranean and the East. As we walked the great stone avenues of the Cardo and the Decumanus, Nissim pointed to the spot where his team found 32 perfectly preserved gold coins buried beneath fallen columns.

The whole city was built as a celebration of water. Stone aqueducts carried millions of cubic meters from the valley’s springs into public fountains and down monumental staircases. The western bathhouse alone spread over more than seven dunams, warmed by a hypocaust heating system beneath the floors. Wellness, it turns out, was always a pillar of civilization here.

Scythopolis also feels unusually real. Its Roman theater, with remarkable acoustics, is more than 90% original stone, unlike the heavily reconstructed ruins at Caesarea. And what visitors see today, Nissim explained, is only 7%-8% of the ancient city’s 1,700 dunams. The rest lies under the valley floor, frozen as it stood on January 18, 749 CE, when an earthquake leveled the city in seconds. There is enough buried city left, he says, for another 90 years of digging.

Standing in that empty theater as the morning light climbed the stone, I thought back to Chen’s ponds, to water slowly finding its way home to the Jordan. Reish Lakish called this valley the gate of Eden. Two thousand years on, the springs are still running, and the valley is still restoring the people who walk through it.

https://www.jpost.com/travel/article-911785